Day 42. Red Lodge. MT. Miles: 154

Last night the hotel had thin walls and someone was having a party or something.  So I turned on the TV until everything was quiet around 2 am. It was also noisy outside. People coming in late… and then the wind started up. I was planning on getting out early but not after a night like that… plus Temps were going to be in the upper 50’s and that means 40’s in the passes. Brrrrrr. So I started packing the bike just before 9 am. I see an older couple starting to pack from the room bordering the TV wall. I hope I didn’t keep you awake with the TV last night. She replied… You Did. I’m sorry but someone was having a party and I figured I might as well watch TV. I had it as low as I could and muted the commercials.  It’s ok, much better than the night before. She asks me about the bike and trip. I tell her. I ask where are they from as she has a heavy accent.  Denmark.  Flew over here. To drive. She said I was crazy after hearing where I had gone and was going. Why? Ve do most of that in three years. You are doing it in 40 days!  We chat a bit more. They are heading east but not sure which way to go. I tell her you have to go on this road and pass and then this pass. She pulls out a three ring binder. Flips to a printed out Google map route. You mean this one? Yes. Ok, Ve will go dat way. Good! I head out and soon I am out of town and have 16 miles to go to get to 296 CJH. No wind and at 0930 65° not bad. Soon I start winding way up but not at speed as I want to see it and get some good video and not just catch glimpses of it while I enjoy the road. Then a yellow V-Strom zips by me. Hey, that’s the guy I saw and talked to coming out of Yellowstone and in a few other places and finally at the restaurant last night. I start to keep up but he didn’t have any bags on today and he had road tires so it was tough. Still I was not losing ground.  Then the big wide open Vista overlook was there and I had to stop. What a view. Have Gopro video of it but took a panoramic shot for now. Then a lady walks up and starts asking me questions as I am in my HiViz suit and the bike is there. Then her husband comes up and we are all talking.  They lived near St Louis for years. I ask if they moved out here to get away from the humidity? Yes. Although the lady wants to move back as her 5 yr old granddaughter misses her terribly.  That’s why I am staying in IL as we have 4 grandchildrenvery close to us. It’s their anniversary so they are driving over to Red Lodge to celebrate.  What a nice drive! 
It was brisk up there and as we were parting I see the Danish couple walking up. I say hi. Then  just when I have everything on to go I see them taking individual shots. You want me to take one with both of you in it? So I take my helmet and gloves off and walked back over… except he had an SLR I wasn’t familiar with… Do you want to get it set up for me and then I can take the picture? We switch places and the lady puts her arm around me laughs… much better. She has to be freezing in her light summer dress. Pictures taken and I’m about to go and the first couple (anniversary) want to get a picture of me and the bike. Sure.

After that it was all down hill until you got to this gorge… and just before that gorge a gravel road went off towards a canyon… so I peeled off and went down the gravel road… for 20 something miles. It got smaller and smaller. Went across two rough dry water courses and eventually across two flowing water courses.  Plowed through those and the 2nd one got a little squirrley but I made it. Finally it got down to a shale/dirt mixture and was wide enough for a side by side.  You could squeeze a jeep down it… I saw a place to pull off by the river so I could eat brunch (cup of salted still in the shell pistachios) and enjoy the babbling river as it flowed by.  I decidedly to turn around as I was by myself and still loaded pretty heavily and didn’t need to get hurt or hurt the bike. On my way out I went much faster and I didn’t get into a soft spot on the 2nd water crossing this time. 34 minutes later I was out to the main road. Stopped at the gorge to walk out on the bridge. Met some guys, one on a KTM and another on a FJR. They were from Edmonton, Alberta.  They were my age and they have to be at work Monday morning! They have some serious riding to do in the next two days! 
Left the gorge and put the hammer down as the afternoon clouds were building up and I needed  to do another 25 miles and then start up Bear Tooth Pass and I didn’t want to do it in the rain.  I wound my way up Bear Tooth until I got to the Top of the World store and resort. Pulled in and saw a 1984 Honda Hawk. I stopped and talked to the owner who moved out from Massachusetts 3 years ago. His buddy on the Harley moved 20 yrs ago. Both are very happy now as they like the freedom in MT and less taxes. He said he cleaned that Hawk after every time he rode it. I told him about F11. He replied… I am an auto detailer I got stuff…. I said… let me show you, as I got out my bottle and rag. I bring it with to clean bugs off my screen and lights. I’ve given up cleaning this bike after so many gravel roads. Do you mind as I pointed to his front fender which had a layer of grime on it. No, go ahead. I spritzed some on and then wiped it off then rubbed it with a dry part of the rag and his reply… I can’t believe that.  He rubbed it… what is that stuff again? I said Topcoat F-11.  I gotta get some!  Then I moved my bike to the store proper and I had to go around a big group of Harleys.  They all stared at me. Then they came over and started asking questions and I answered them. Hey, I got to go in the store. Ok. I bought a sticker and came out and there were more looking at the bike. I  answered their questions.  They all had an accent.  Where are you guys from? Sweden! Oh, how’d you get here? We flew into Denver and we are here for 12 days.  It was really hot in Denver so this feels much better. I got my phone out and said Hey,  let’s get a picture of all the Swedes! They agreed… and more came from everwhere… how many are there? 21! Ok. I got their picture and then… take one with my phone too. Ok.  After that… Hey, you need to get in the picture too! So I did. Then it was good bye and then the guy on the Yellow V-Strom rolls in… he pulls up to me. I say… you again? He replied… I promise I am not stalking you! He is from Wisconsin by Eau Claire. 
I pull out and the road just keeps on winding up and up. Tops out at 10,900 ft or there about. I’ve been on higher passes but the road is sinuous and nice. Very different with great views. One turn from the top I see a British license plate on a Honda CRF300  rallye on a turn off so I stopped for the view and to talk to the Brit. Turns out his name is Andy and he is a guy I have read about on Facebook! He and his wife are riding around the world. You may know them by “Mad Or Nomad” couldn’t believe it. 200 yds from the summit and I meet him as we look out over the landscape.  His wife is a turn below.  He was filming her as she rode down there. After that it was all downhill and down, down, down it went until You get to Red Lodge.  I asked the gas station cashier where to eat in Red Lodge. She said Bogart’s.  Ok, Bogart’s it was… it was later in the day and I didn’t feel like going further… especially when big animals can be out and about. So I found a fairly inexpensive motel ($118 after taxes. A lot were well over $200 and many were sold out) and I will get out earlier.  Yellow V-Strom man said the forest road over the Bighorn mountains was all forest and I would have better views on the main pass. Thanks! So hopefully make some good time tomorrow! 

Near the top of Bear Tooth Pass.  Helmet hair!
My route and the little side trip!
The gas station cashier said their Nachos were good. They were… shredded beef.
Andy of Mad or Nomad on the next corner down filming his wife around that corner.
Andy and I
His CRF300. 
Me and 20 Swedes as one of them is behind the phone at The Top of the World Store.
Brunch site
Bike did very well on the water crossings and rough stuff.

2 responses to “Day 42. Red Lodge. MT. Miles: 154”

  1. What a great read today! And the pictures!

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  2. Glad your trip is progressing well. I’ll live vicariously through it.

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